A lot of people believe that rabbits make easy “starter” pets. This is entirely incorrect.
Things you need to provide the basics for your rabbit:
- The rabbit: small rabbits tend to be feisty, larger breeds tend to be more mellow. However, never purchase or adopt a rabbit based solely on the breed, as with any pet, they have individual personalities. Be sure to ask the breeder or adoption agency about each specific rabbit, especially if you already have one or more bunny at home. If the breeder does not know anything about his rabbits personalities, don’t buy from that breeder. a good breeder will know each rabbit individually and will be happy to talk your ears off. Rabbits are like people and need to be compatible in order to get along. As always, think adoption first, there is no shortage and most shelters have small animals available, just ask. If the breeder will not let you see the cages, do NOT buy from that breeder, that is your number one sign of a BAD BAD BAD breeder.
- the habitat: most pet store cages are too small. Above you will see mabel’s habitat, this is for use when I am not present/ at work/ sleeping at night. As you can see, that Hutch is FAR too small for a 7 pound rabbit. Mabel has an exercise pen attached to the hutch , she has 24-7 access to both run and hutch, though she spends much of her day out in my bed room. If you are going to have a run like Mabel’s, be sure to lay down some sort of surface to protect your carpet, wood and tile are NOT good choices, rabbits will slip and slide all over those surfaces. I suggest a tightly woven rug that the rabbit cannot dig or eat.
The rabbit’s habitat should have enough space for them to take 3 large hops, and they should be able to stand on their hind legs with their ears erect, without having their ears touch the ceiling. You may have noticed, most store bought cages only provide room for one and a half hops, and the rabbit cannot stand. Do not waste money on these cages.
- The Litter/Dig Box: Rabbits are VERY easy to litter box train, simply put the litter/dig box in the rabbit’s preferred corner and the rabbit will naturally gravitate towards said box. putting a small amount of hay in the box helps, because rabbits like to eat where they poop and vice versa. Do not use grass as the actual litter, would you like to eat your own urine/feces? I didn’t think so. an inexpensive cat box makes a prime choice, or you can buy a corner pan. as you can see here, I use both. Mabel LOVES to sleep, dig, and eat her grass in the box, that box is where she spends a lot of her time, so make it comfy for them, many rabbits share Mabel’s love of the box.
- The Litter: Never use cat litter, or cedar/pine shavings. Aspen is okay, but wood shavings are not very good as they tend to get very stinky very fast. paper pellets are a good litter though they are a little more expensive, they are non toxic and do not smell NEARLY as bad as wood shavings. They are unscented and tend to last a long time. (side note: Check out this link to see the dangers of wood shavings http://www.rabbit.org/care/shavings.html ) (there are no proven side effects of aspen shavings, which are cheap, you may use these if you are on a budget, but I still don’t recommend them. I use them occasionally when i’m too poor for the good stuff)
- The food: An adult rabbit will need 1/4 to 1/2 a cup of rabbit pellets per 6 pounds of adult weight, infinite access to hay, and infinite access to clean fresh water. An adult rabbit also requires about 2 cups of fresh, crisp leafy greens a day.
- the pellet: DO NOT buy pellets with cereals in it. These cereals are made to look pretty for humans, your rabbit will enjoy it, but it’s nothing but junk food. Buy a plain pellet with NO extras. (http://rabbit.org/faq-diet/ check out this link to see details on good pellet nutrients)
- the hay: your rabbit, both young and old needs infinite grass. A rabbit under 4 months should be fed something like alfalfa (which is actually a legume) an adult rabbit SHOULD NOT be fed alfalfa, an adult rabbit should ideally be eating plain timothy hay. do not buy hay that has extras like carrots or flowers. again, same with the pellets, that is like junk food.
- water: rabbits love to drink out of bowls, but will usually knock them over. Mabel enjoys a bowl as a sort of treat, but she also has a large water bottle to drink from. never let your rabbit run out of water, a medium size rabbit will drink as much as a small dog.
- Daily leafy greens: http://rabbit.org/suggested-vegetables-and-fruits-for-a-rabbit-diet/ DO NOT include carrots, celery or iceburg lettuce in your rabbit’s salad. these things are TREATS, and rabbits rarely care for iceburg lettuce, which is mostly water and carbs. Carrots are a good treat, but are pure sugar and are NOT for daily feeding.
Treats: everyone likes a snack, even rabbits. Snacks are not bad for rabbits if given in moderation. Mabel’s favorites are yam sticks (pure yam, no preservatives) and millet seed (again, no additives or preservatives). Try to stick with natural treats that don’t have any fancy cereals or anything. Rabbits don’t need that junk, they are happy with a bit of watermelon or a carrot. Treats should only be given a couple times a week, because rabbits have a propensity for getting fat. Treats are not necessary, but your rabbit sure will love them and they make an excellent training motivator. If you are going to train with treats, I suggest vegetables and bits of apple.
Toys! : be sure to provide your rabbit with lots of things to chew on and play with. A bored rabbit is a destructive rabbit. Good ideas for rabbit toys include: toilet paper tubes, hard plastic baby keys, a tube for running in, plastic sand toys, and more! Be sure the toy is safe though, NEVER give your rabbit anything made out of rubber. Any toy you give a rabbit must be safe for chewing. Rabbits use their mouths for everything, chew logs are also excellent. These double as a treat, many are coated with honey or have sweetened hay. The sugar content is low enough that the rabbit won’t get fat, and they can grind their teeth down at the same time. Hidey huts are a must, rabbits like to run and hide when there is a loud noise, be sure to give them something to hide in, it can be a fancy hut or a cardboard box, they don’t care (actually most rabbits probably prefer the box, fun to tear apart!)
EXTRAS: YES you DO need to take your rabbit to the vet, JUST like a cat or dog. And YES you DO need to have them spayed or neutered. You MUST clip their claws at least every two months, if you cannot, you need to take them to the vet or groomer and have it done. You MUST let your rabbit out to play DAILY. You MUST train your rabbit, or they will destroy your house. Rabbits ARE destructive; never let anyone tell you otherwise. Be prepared to have carpet pulled, baseboards chewed, and cords destroyed. Bunny proof your home, or you will end up VERY frustrated. Guinea pigs are not good companions for rabbits, RABBITS are good companions for rabbits.
NEVER EVER, EVER BUY A RABBIT FOR ANY CHILD UNDER THE AGE OF 8. NEVER LEAVE THE RABBIT ALONE WITH A CHILD. BE PREPARED TO CARE FOR YOUR CHILD’S RABBIT YOURSELF. NEVER BUY A RABBIT FOR EASTER. NEVER BUY A RABBIT BEFORE DOING RESEARCH. RABBITS ARE NOT STARTER PETS; THEY CAN LIVE UP FROM 8 TO 15 YEARS. THE AVERGAGE LIFE SPAN IS ABOUT 10-12 YEARS.
REMEMBER. AN INDOOR RABBIT IS A HAPPY RABBIT. DOMESTIC RABBITS ARE -NOT- THE SAME AS COTTON TAILS. THEY DO NOT DO WELL IN HOT OR COLD, AND CAN LITERALLY DIE OF A HEART ATTACK IF A PREDATOR COMES NEAR.
I have personally known many people who have obtained a rabbit and have gone in a desperate search to give it up shortly there after, simply because they did not realize how difficult it is to care for a rabbit (a rabbit, by the way, will cost about 500-600 dollars a year to care for, and that does not include going to the vet) be sure to educate yourself before getting a bunny.
One day I will have my agility rabbit.
Though not anytime soon: Ratchet’s prey drive is way too much.
I am a horrible person. Left Ghost in his crate while I was at work because I thought he could hold it that long (since I let him out right before I left and cut his food/water supply a while earlier) but he cannot. :\
I thought he could because he easily…
I’m not even sure how I’d go about doing that. Clamps and a tarp? I’m lost here xD
But I’m sure it’d be much cheaper than buying a taller one, so I’m open to all ideas.
I’d start out with clamps and a sheet. You can also use metal grates on top and clip it on with carabiners if Ghost gets through the sheet. I thnk they also make specific expen tops that are cheaper than buying a taller expen.
An asexual and pansexual become room-mates and have wacky adventures
The show is called ‘All or Nothing’
Plot twist: the asexual is really super outgoing and is a huge flirt while the pansexual is extremely socially awkward and has trouble ordering coffee let alone getting a date.
my hand slipped
will reblog until this becomes an actual show
AND THEN IT GOT FUNDED
Shakespearean insults, with cats.
7 more here.
I did not realize how very perfect cats were at delivering Shakespeare’s insults until now.
Throwing a punch is apparently only 15 yards.
Twisting a guys head backwards via face mask is nothing.
Should have been 2 to 1 unnecessary roughness and an ejection
I hearby promise to not miss another rider game this season.
I just did a normal one and vacuumed around them.
Do it into a bucket vs using a python though just in case.